Mzungu

My back to the door, I was watching a lesson at the school in Mitumba when behind me, I heard a sound. I turned just in time to see a little girl maybe four years old peeking around the door frame at me. As soon as we made eye contact, she whispered, "Mzungu!" flashed a quick smile and ran away…

Walking across the courtyard of the school, I passed by the window of one of the classrooms and was greeted with a chorus of, “Hello, Mzunguuu!” …

Down one of the passageways in Mitumba are several classrooms. When I arrived the first day, school had already started (I arrived late after being dropped off at my homestay), and there was nowhere I could stand without all eyes turning to me and whispers of “Mzungu!” rippling through the class…

Walking down the road on my way to Mituma, I pass many people heading to wherever they are heading. This morning as I walked, I passed two women with toddlers on their backs. One pointed at me with a big smile and called out, “Mzungu!”

Those of you who know what “Mzungu” means are chuckling and perhaps nodding your heads because you’ve been there. Those who don’t let me let you in on the secret: Mzungu means “white person.” Whitey, if you will. Where ever I go, but particularly in the school, I feel like quite the spectacle.

The first class I sat in on was a grade three class, and one girl, Esther (Aysta) just sat, turned around in her desk, staring at me. I would catch her eye, she’d smile and turn away, but would be staring at me again in no time. I’m fairly certain she didn’t catch ANY of the lesson that day! And the kids love to stroke my skin and my hair, too! I’m quite the curiosity!

I think the mzungu experience that has stood out the most, however, have been two very young girls – maybe two years old? – one yesterday who was maybe with her sister after school as we were cleaning water bottles getting ready for water treatment, and one today who was waiting in the preschool class while her mother was out for a bit. Both of them were staring at me, and I went over to say hello. “Sa sa! Habari yako?” (Hi! How are you?) I’d ask, and extend my hand to shake theirs. But as soon as I approached, they both burst into tears and turned their backs to hide their faces. “Hapana! Hapana! Pole! [poh-lay]” (No, no! Sorry!) I’d tell them. I gestured to myself and told them, “Rafiki! Rafiki!” (friend) But it was no use. Me and my white skin had terrified them and they would not stop sobbing! For a moment an Arrested Development moment flashed through my head and I felt like calling out, a la Buster, “I’m a monster!” Ah! Poor little sweethearts!

I guess I’d better get used to my new name! I have a feeling I’m going to be Mzungu for quite some time yet!